Being the first stop of the Infinity Walk, the clamour around the area intensifies as day breaks. It is famously known as Char Dukan — as there were originally 4 shops, but now there are 5. These old-fashioned eateries appear to be jostling for space yet bound together by age-old heritage. Besides, Landour is provincially described as 4 dukan aur 24 makan (4 shops and 24 houses).

Sooner than later, exotic dishes start getting rustled up at the Tip Top Tea Shop. The captivating aroma, after escaping the magic pan, is usually on the prowl for visitors. And the earlycomers are lured into one of the oldest shops here — which is credited with inventing the Indian avatar of a foreign breakfast staple. Served in many varieties, pancakes have become a delicacy around here. "As the name suggests, one gets tip-top pancakes here. We have been serving different palates since 1910," chuckles Vipin Prakash, owner of the Tip Top Tea Shop. When asked about the story behind the name, he told HT, "The shop was quite popular among the women of the British soldiers. They started calling it Tip Top Tea Shop because of the quality of tea that was being served here."

"Today, pancakes, bun & omelette, vegetable maggi, and hot honey lemon ginger tea are our bestsellers."

As you satiate your taste buds, you couldn't help but notice a hotel — Light Of Landour — casting a disarming glance at Char Dukan.

Tourists flock to Lal Tibba to experience the first ray of light as it pierces the dense fog to reach the surface of the dormant mountains. The chirping of birds, playful grunts and hoots of monkeys fill the stagnant air. People are often lost in reverie until they hear vehicles chasing and honking their way through the narrow lanes.

Kellogg Memorial Church and Language School act as the landmarks — directing visitors to Sisters Bazaar (on the left) and Char Dukan (on the right). (HT/Avinash Singh Sudan)

From the early 1900s, all the eclectic residents of Landour, including military doctors, nursing sisters, British and American missionaries, Language School students, and Woodstock parents and staff met at Community Centre book clubs and exchanged their international recipes and high-altitude baking tips with each other simply in passing conversations — states a declaration hanging at the entrance of the cafe. These recipes have been published as the Landour Cookbook — which serves as an inspiration for many of Landour Bakehouse's desserts and puddings. Its croissants and coffee walnut cake are to die for!

"One can sip on a traditional steaming pot of tea and ponder about the history of this quaint little town, while enjoying the views overlooking the majestic snow peaks of the great Himalayan range through the whispering pines that stand still," it adds.

Your trip to Landour won't be complete if you haven't visited Prakash Stores in Sisters Bazaar. They have been serving fruit jams, chutneys, peanut butter and cheese since 1928.

Keep an extra day or two and stay if you’d like to explore Mussoorie.